The National Palace: Diego's Best

A trip to Mexico City wouldn't have been complete without a stop at the Palacio National to see perhaps Rivera's best murals. I say best, and not necessarily my favorite, because of the complicated nature and size of this project. This set of murals was begun in 1929. The staircase mural is a real masterpiece showing Mexico Through the Centuries.

Inside Courtyard at the Palacio National

Staircase panel showing Mexico's history from the time of Cortes through the Mexican Revolution

Detail from the Staircase Mural

The size, the angles, and the crowds make the staircase particularly difficult to photograph. Nonetheless, the amount of detail in the mural shows why it took Rivera six years to complete it. Rivera returned to the National Palace to complete the project between 1945 and 1951. In the set of murals at the top of the staircase on the first floor, he has a detailed presentation of the pre-Hispanic cultures of Mexico. The vision of ancient Tenochtitlan (modern day downtown Mexico City), gives the viewer a sense of how expansive and advanced this civilization was.

Detail from images of ancient Tenochtitlan

Detail of pre-Hispanic dress and jewelry.

Piercings and tattoos! So what's so different today?

Tomorrow: A Walk through San Angel 



Strolling Through the Districto Historico

Most of my days start and finish here in the Hotel Isabel lobby. With WiFi now at the hotel, blogging has become easy and convenient. No more going down the street looking for Internet cafes. For those without their own computers, the hotel does offer Internet services for a small fee.

Blogging Headquarters - Hotel Isabel Lobby

Inside the beautiful Casa de los Azulejos is a Sanborn's restaurant. They're all over the city. Nothing spectacular, but a nice place for a cup of coffee when in this neighborhood. The diner-like seating with marble counter tops and chandeliers makes Sanborn's a pleasant rest stop before traveling on to another museum.

Morning Coffee at Sanborn's Inside the Casa de los Azulejos

The Edificio de Correos (Post Office) is a stunning example of Italian renaissance style architecture. After walking up this bronze staircase, one's eyes are naturally directed to the beautiful glass ceiling above. Your visit here doesn't have to be long in order to just appreciate the splendor of this early 20th century building.

Staircase inside the Edifico de Correos (Pretty Nice for a Post Office!)

Just off Alameda Park is the Museo Franz Mayer. The two photos below show off two of its highlights - the library and the courtyard. The museum itself is a wonderful collection of decorative arts spanning the centuries as well as temporary exhibits. At this time, there is a lovely contemporary furniture show and a ceramic exhibit. One can literally walk through the ages examining top-end home decor.

Library Inside the Museo Franz Mayer - Makes One Want to Read More!

Interior Courtyard and Fountain Inside Museo Franz Mayer

After all my visits to the Cathedral, I finally decided to climb the bell tower. What the heck, it only costs a little over $1. I made it up just before noon and got the bell ringing show that was certainly one of the highlights of this trip to DF. In addition to the bell ringing, the view of Mexico City in all directions is breathtaking. I'm going to do this again.

Looking for Quasimodo High Up In The Bell Tower (Mexico City Cathedral)!

There are always demonstrations, large and small, taking place at the Zocalo. Just outside the fence surrounding the cathedral, a small group was protesting against adding religious material to the public school curriculum. No doubt, this was nicely timed with the Pope's visit to Mexico.

If I had had nuns like this in catholic school, I would have paid more attention!

If I could be a Facebook fan of street food, I would be. This noon I had a great mushroom and cheese quesadilla cooked by these ladies. While standing on the street eating lunch I also met a guy from Canada and another from France doing the same thing. Good food and good company, can it get any better than that?

Street Food - Always a Tasty Treat in DF!

 

Parks, Plazas, & Fountains in La Roma

This morning I headed off to the neighborhood of La Roma. A short metro ride from the Historical District, Roma represents an upper-class neighborhood filled with nice homes, beautiful parks and fountains, and an abundance of cafes. I have found that my trusty companion on this trip, my Lonely Planet Guide to Mexico City, proposes a number of neighborhood walks. This one, and I followed it turn by turn, presented me with a relaxing morning wondering if I could afford a house here. As you'll see below, there's also a connection with the United States (see the two links below) in this section of town

Kids park in Jardin Pushkin.

Strolling along Alvaro Obregon Avenue.

Dancing Fountains at Plaza Luis Cabrera

Around Plaza Cabrera was where American Beat writer William S. Burroughs lived in the 1950s.

Statue of David in Plaza Rio de Janero.

This must be a professional photograph it's so good! Not!

Plaza Villa de Madrid with one of those ubiquitous taxis that tourists are warned to stay away from.

I was a little tired this evening so I stayed close to the hotel. I went into the hotel bar for a beer. The only available seat at the bar was next to a clown with a ventriloquist dummy (swear to God). I know the little guy was staring at me! It wasn't too weird until he started to sing karaoke. Well, most of the guys at the bar were taking turns passing the microphone singing karaoke. Then, the mariachi musicians arrived! It became a real song fest and I was right in the middle of it. It's amazing how many people down here know the words to so many songs. Well, I was pretty popular and after about two hours, I had to promise to learn the words to Frank Sinatra's My Way  in Spanish for the next time I come to town. I told them that my brother would be glad to sing with me in July.

Comrade Trotsky, We Know Where You Live!

My day started out heading for Chapultepec Park. To give you a pretty good comparison, it's Central Park (NYC) size. I've been there on a couple of previous trips always with a specific agenda. The park is just too big, with too many attractions to just wonder about. So, travels today took me to El Fuente de Tlaloc. Two intereting sites can be found here: 1) a 3-D ceramic fountain sculpture, and 2) Rivera murals, recently restored, emphasizing the life power of water. First, the fountain! It's a magnificant ceramic masterpiece that Rivera constructed with the artist Juan O'Gorman around 1950.

Tlaloc - God of Water Rivera-style!

The murals inside the pavillion have just recently been restored. For over 20 years, they were closed to the public. They only reopened in 2010. Now, these masterpieces celebrating the life power of water can be enjoyed almost as they were intended (today, there is no longer any water covering the floor murals).






 Detail from inside the Waterworks.





 You're in good hands. Could be an Allstate commercial!

Time to move on so I headed over to Coyoacan. This is one of the most delightful neighborhoods in DF. This is where Diego and Frida lived. Since I had visited their house (La Casa Azul) on an earlier trip, today, my sights were set on the Trotsky House and Museum. Again, if you saw the movie Frida, she and Trotsky became special friends that ultimately lead to a most strained relationship between the Riveras and the Trotskys.

Trotsky's house. Gun tower added after the first assassination attempt.






Trotsky study where he was murdered!



Wouldn't you just die for a kitchen like this? Trotsky did.

Trotsky lived in this house just over a year. However, his grandson maintained it for many more years after his death in 1940. It's a wonderfully peaceful spot and one can only imagine what it was like in Coyoacan then as a rural area outside the city. Any history lover would enjoy a visit to Trotsky's exile home in Mexico.

The Coyoacan market is also a most pleasant spot for lunch. I've come to enjoy eating in markets where the food is wonderfully delicious and more of what you might find in a Mexican home. Today's chili rellano (yes, I often order the same thing at my lunch spots) was very tasty and a full meal including soup, rice, the rellano, and fruit water cost all of $35MEX or less than $3US.

Highspeed tortilla maker at Coyoacan Market.

I ended my day enjoying a little people watching at one of the many sidewalk cafes in Coyoacan. I now know where Nancy and Donna can enjoy a nice galss of wine when we return here in June.

7.6 Earthquake Rocks Mexico City Mid-Day

No, being on the subway in Mexico City during an earthquake was not on my Bucket List. But, I think that it's only fair to now add it to the list so that I can cross it off. The city was rockin' and rollin' for a bit at mid-day. Only some structural damage; no injuries reported. I happened to be on my way to La Raza Hospital to check out a mural. When I got there, this was the scene:

Earthquake? I thought it was our monthly fire drill! (staff at La Raza Hospital)

Well, as all travelers know, this was one of those Murphy's Law type of days. I did finally get inside the hospital only to be able to view the Rivera mural from about 50 feet away. Things were in a bit of a mess there (including some pieces of ceiling on the floor) and the doors leading up to the mural were chained shut.

                                                     The History of Medicine (1953).

Earlier in the day, I headed out of town to Texcoco to the Univeristy of Chapingo. More Murphy's Law! After a second class bus ride, a local town bus, and a collectivo I arrived at the beautiful agricultural college some 20 miles outside DF. I walked down the peaceful tree-lined path that would have been there when Diego painted the hacienda chapel. Upon reaching the chapel, to my disappointment, it was closed. In fact, most of the university was deserted! But, this is a school day, I shouted! What's going on? A teacher/worker's strike! Yes, the same one that I saw part of last weekend at the Zocalo in the capital. The university was closed down except for entrance to the grounds. Oh well, such things happen as one travels. I'll have to revisit it again on a later trip (at least I know how to get there now).

Former hacienda at Chapingo University.

This traveler can't be discouraged. I had not yet had my fill of Diego today. So, back in DF, I headed over to Santo Domingo Plaza to visit the Education Ministry (the guidebook said it was open until 6 pm, but you already know what kind of day this has been). No disappointments here! Rivera was commissioned to paint a series of 120 murals between 1923 and 1928 at the Ministry. Although I had visisted here before, I enjoyed today's visit as much as the first time. Check out Olga's website for many more images from the Ministry of education.

Mural detail for the Ministry of Education (1923).

A young Frida Kahlo at "The Arsenal".

Common Socialist Theme Seen in Rivera's Work - Solidarity!

Another Favorite Theme in Rivera's Work - Capitalism, Wealth, & Greed!

So much for working all day. It's time for a pint - a pint of pulque that is. Pulque is a fermented drink made from the agave plant that goes back over 2,000 years to Aztec times. Today, it has found a renaissance with college students as their drink of choice. Pulquerias like La Risa (just around the corner from my hotel) can be loud and crowded. Although there is white pulque, most people seem to drink the flavored (curados) variations. It's a bit like an alcoholic smoothie! The flavor of the day on Tuesday is strawberry. Cheers!

La Risa - Oldest Pulqueria in the City (1909).

Tomorrow: Chapultepec Park

Sunday at the Museums (Part 2)

In addition to museums, my walks took me to some unusual places just to enjoy the activites of daily life. At the Plaza de Danzon, locals gather on weekends to practice their dance steps. In one small area, there were various groups listening and grooving to their own sounds. Clearly, this was a neighborhood event including food vendors and plenty of local characters.

Zumba (Mexican style) at Plaza de Danzon!

An afternoon hike around the city wouldn't not have been complete without finding something to eat. The Taqueria Tlaquepaque is a place I found years ago. More recently, I've eaten at their Palm Springs, CA branch (really!). The taqueria brags about being the best "Casa de la Birria" (yes, House of the Goat) in town. Well, I have to admit, the plateful of birria tacos I devoured at this hole-in-the-wall establishment were delicious (not not mention that you get a jug of goat au-jus to go with it!). I can't wait to take my brother there (he's already been to the PS location with me).

                                                          Best goat tacos in town!

So much for eating and dancing! Back to my museum crawl today. My next stop was the Diego Rivera Mural Museum (also free on Sundays). Although it's not a large museum, it does house Rivera's great Dream of a Sunday Afternoon. This room length mural has so much going on it it that it takes a good hour to begin to appreciate it. The guide to the persons in the mural is presented in both English and Spanish.

Sunday Afternoon Dreaming (1947)

 I thought you wanted to buy some fruit Senor.

A young Diego with the Frida of his dreams!

It's a national holiday today celebrating President Benito Jaurez (top figure in this section of the painting).

As today, Monday, really is a national holiday, the streets are jammed with couples and families out for a stroll. Most eat their largest meal of the day in the early- to mid-afternoon. I, too, have gone in this direction so as to be able to walk off huge amount of food before bed. You wouldn't guess that there was any economic crisis here. The restaurants are full and look to be doing a great business. I have come to enjoy finding spots filled with local diners and where I am the only gringo in sight. Today was no exception. I read about this tiny restaurant know for authentic Oaxacan-style mole negro. Well, that was my lunch stop today and it didn't disappoint. From the outside, you probably would just walk on by. However, judging this book by it's cover would have been a mistake.

Looking for the best mole in DF? Surprise!

Americanized Mexican food isn't what you get here. My enchiladas con mole were delicious. Every day a large batch of mole is prepared fresh in a huge ceramic caldron at the Fonda Mi Lupita. Three tortillas are placed in the mole to soak in the sauce. They are then placed on a plate. After adding a generous serving of shreaded chicken, they are covered with more mole negro. A grated Mexican cheese (queso fresco) and fresh onions top the dish. Since I have all week here, I know that I'll be back for seconds!

Tomorrow: Looking for Chapingo

Sunday at the Museums

FIrst, I have to share with you the best place to have a drink with a view in Mexico City. At the corner of Madera and the Zocalo is the Majestic Hotel. If you go up to the 7th floor, you can have dinner or just a drink in the bar and enjoy the best view in the city. I was expecting to be hit with a pretty stiff bar bill. To my surprise, a beer at the Majestic cost only $30MEX or about $2.50US. This is a deal! Check out the view of the cathedral.

A bar with a view! Upstairs in the Majestic Hotel.

One day a week, most museums have free admission. Sunday happens to be the day most of them use. However, free doesn't always mean free for everyone. At my first stop this morning at the Templo Mayor ruins next to the cathedral, I didn't pass as a national. Therefore, it wasn't going to be free for me. Nonetheless, I knew there would be other more generous spots welcoming the tourist. My first stop turned out to be the Palacio de Bellas Artes near Alemada Park (currently under reconstruction to replace all of the sidewalks inside the park).

Palacio de Bellas Artes

The museum that was begun in 1905, is a wonderful example of art nouveau architecture. I was particularly taken by the Maya Choc masks at the top of each of the vertical light panels.

Choc mask - art nouveau style!

However, my main reason for checking out the Fine Arts Museum today was to revisit a couple of favorite murals that I hadn't seen since one of my first visits to DF. Located on the third floor is Rivera's 1934 mural of Man at the Crossroads. Originally, this mural was commissioned for New York's Rockefeller Center. But, due to controversial material in the mural depicting capitalism accompanied by war and socialism shown with health and peace, that mural was destroyed shortly after it was completed. Fortunately, Rivera was commissioned to recreate it here on the west wall of the museum.

Central detail of Crossroads

Four floor to ceiling paintings of Rivera's entitled Carnival of Mexican Life can be found on the same floor. Other murals by Tomayo, Sigueiros, and Orozco also cover the walls of the Palacio.

Rivera's Carnival (1935)

Between museums today, I was able to take in a dual piano recital at the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildofonso. Yes, this is the same spot where I shared with you the Rivera mural The Creation a few days ago. What a great setting for a concert. The music was a Canadian/Mexican project where music representing the two countries has showcased. To listen to such good music in the shadow of Rivera's masterpiece was one of this trip's highlights.

Sunday afternoon concert! Wow!

 

Although there was more museum hopping today, I think that I will share my visit to the Diego Rivera Mural Museum in a later blog.

 

Tomorrow: Goat Tacos and Zumba?

Travels to Cuernavaca: More Murals and Pozole

Cuernavaca is a lovely colonial city just 60 miles south Mexico City. With heavy Saturday morning traffic, the trip took a full two hours. As with many Mexican cities, the zolalo is the center of town. There, one finds the Palacio de Cortes built by the conquerer around 1522. As you can see in the photo, it was built as a fortress and for good reason.

Palacio de Cortes built between 1522-1532 

Today the Palacio houses the Museo Regional Cuauhnahuac. Exhibits highlight Mexican cultures from pre-Hispanic cultures to the Mexican Revolution. My reason for visiting Cuernavaca are the Rivera murals on the back side of the palace. Completed in the mid-1920, Diego and Frida Kahlo lived in Cuernavaca while he painted the balcony with scenes from the conquest through the revolution.

Balcony in the Palacio where Rivera's mural found a home.

I had the gallary completely to myself today. Although there were many other visitors to the museum, Most seem more interested in the historical displays featuring the peoples and events there in the state of Morales.

Local hero Emiliano Zatpata is featured a couple of times in this mural.

Mural detail - Crossing the Ravine.

Gruesome detail from the Conquest mural. The Indians won this fight!

One of the very pleasant features of Cuernavaca are the parks or plazas. Plaza Juarez, although not large compared to the zocalo, features a gazebo designed by Gustave Eiffel (yes, the Paris Tower guy). This was a real unexpected treat to find.

The Eiffle Gazebo? Doesn't sound quite right!

Lunch in Cuernavaca was great. Their pozole blanco is highly recommended. I'm not a big fan of hominy, but the Guerrero-style pozole was excellent. A tasty chicken broth, with large kernals of hominy. The corn was different than any other I've had. I could have ordered the pozole without the chunks of gelatenous fat, but I wanted it as the locals order it.

 Pozole! Almost as good as mom's!

Prior to jumping the bus for my ride back to DF, I visited the cathedral. Interestingly, this is one of the few Mexican cathedrals not on a town's main plaza. Nonetheless, it was well worth the two block walk to check out the "fortress-like" church. A wedding was just finishing up and I'm sure the cherubs were looking out for the newlyweds.

 Cuernavaca was well worth the day trip out of the city. One could easily spend much more time here, but I'm grateful for a single beautiful afternoon!

Tomorrow: Sunday at the Museums and a Bar with a View